Reinforce your skin barrier!
May 7, 2020
In our previous post, we went through the reasons why skin hydration is everything, and its key mechanisms. If you missed it you can find it here (opens new window).
One of these key mechanisms is to limit water evaporation from the skin (“transepidermal water loss”, or TEWL) with a strong barrier function. This barrier depends on genetics, lifestyle,... and can be affected by environmental changes such as frequent washings, ethanol from hand sanitizers,etc...
Let’s focus today on the skin barrier, especially the lipid matrix, and how to reinforce it for a better protection and hydration of the skin.
The skin barrier is located at the epidermal level (top layer of the skin), and is responsible for protection. One of the main benefits of epidermis is to regulate the permeability of the skin, protecting us against desiccation. This happens especially at the stratum corneum level, the outermost layer of the skin.
The stratum corneum is organized like a “wall”, composed of:
The lipids of the “mortar” provide an effective barrier to the passage of water through the tissue. They adopt a highly ordered 3D organization, in lamellar sheets, more or less fluid/solid depending on the lipid composition.
Diseased skin is often characterized by a reduced barrier function and an altered lipid composition and organization. 
Let’s see how cosmetic products can reinforce this crucial lipidic matrix within the skin!
MONTANOV™ 202 is a 100% plant-sourced O/W emulsifier, creating lotion to cream textures, with a light feel, and ultra white aspect.
It creates liquid crystals lamellar structure around oil droplets and in the continuous phase of the emulsion. This structure has multiple benefits:
Not only good for the skin and your product, it’s also a sustainable ingredient, from renewable sources, natural and biodegradable, with an eco-friendly process.
INCI: Arachidyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Glucoside
EMOGREEN™ are unique high purity alkanes. Alkanes are organic compounds with only carbon and hydrogen atoms, found in the living world (for instance in olive oil, sunflower oil, palm oil). Squalane is a famous alkane, known for its moisturizing properties.
EMOGREEN™ are from vegetable Origin (non GMO) and readily biodegradable. They are inert and non-polar oils, and can be very interesting for beauty products: they are easy to formulate with and to stabilize, even in very extreme conditions. They provide a fresh and gliding sensation for a soft finish, perfect alternatives to silicone oils.
On very dry skin, EMOGREEN™ L19 :
EMOGREEN™ L19 also balances the skin microbiota population involved in the hydrolipidic film production, for hydration improvement (in vivo tested).
EMOGREEN™ L19 allows to decrease the minimum quantity of preservatives needed to reach preservation criteria A (according to European Pharmacopoeia).
INCI: C15-19 Alkane (Plant-based & Renewable)
DUB ESTOLINE® is Stearinerie Dubois’ newest solution inspired by nature, derived from castor oil.
It is an estolide: a highly structured liquid polymer ester derived from fatty acids. It forms a mesh matrix, promoting extreme comfort for sensitive skin and ultimate protection for urban living.
With its surprising honey-like yet non-sticky texture, it provides a smoothing effect with a satiny finish, and cushion without an oily sensation.
In skin care formulations, DUB ESTOLINE® coats the skin for a protective, anti-pollution film-forming, or “second skin,” effect. It promotes hydration and provides a rich texture with a sensation of mild, gentle comfort.
Use 1 to 10% and feel your formulation transform.
INCI: Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate
Discover the association of our best moisturizing ingredients mentioned above in the Boosting Water Cream. It leaves the skin “Chok Chok”: super moisturized but not oily or sticky.
Test the lightweight of a gel with the moisturizing power of a cream!
For other locations, contact Stearinerie Dubois: https://www.stearinerie-dubois.com/en/contact/