In our previous post, we went through the reasons why skin hydration is everything, and its key mechanisms. If you missed it you can find it here (opens new window).

One of these key mechanisms is to limit water evaporation from the skin (“transepidermal water loss”, or TEWL) with a strong barrier function. This barrier depends on genetics, lifestyle,... and can be affected by environmental changes such as frequent washings, ethanol from hand sanitizers,etc...

Let’s focus today on the skin barrier, especially the lipid matrix, and how to reinforce it for a better protection and hydration of the skin.

Where is the skin barrier and what is it made of?

The skin barrier is located at the epidermal level (top layer of the skin), and is responsible for protection. One of the main benefits of epidermis is to regulate the permeability of the skin, protecting us against desiccation. This happens especially at the stratum corneum level, the outermost layer of the skin.

The stratum corneum is organized like a “wall”, composed of:

• “Bricks”, the corneocytes: flat and anucleated cells mostly made of proteins such as fillaggrins, linked by corneodesmosomes,
• “Mortar”, the surrounding lipids: mainly cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides. [1,2]

The lipids of the “mortar” provide an effective barrier to the passage of water through the tissue. They adopt a highly ordered 3D organization, in lamellar sheets, more or less fluid/solid depending on the lipid composition.

Lipid organization in the stratum corneum [3]

Diseased skin is often characterized by a reduced barrier function and an altered lipid composition and organization. [4]

Let’s see how cosmetic products can reinforce this crucial lipidic matrix within the skin!

How to reinforce the skin barrier?

Restructure the skin barrier with MONTANOV™ 202 (opens new window)

MONTANOV™ 202 is a 100% plant-sourced O/W emulsifier, creating lotion to cream textures, with a light feel, and ultra white aspect.

It creates liquid crystals lamellar structure around oil droplets and in the continuous phase of the emulsion. This structure has multiple benefits:

• Stability of the emulsion
• Biomimetic lamellar structure, restructuring the skin barrier and aspect
  • Reduction of TEWL proven in vitro and in vivo
  • Long-lasting moisturization effect after 5 hours
  • Reduction of skin roughness

Not only good for the skin and your product, it’s also a sustainable ingredient, from renewable sources, natural and biodegradable, with an eco-friendly process.

INCI: Arachidyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Glucoside

EMOGREEN™ L19 (opens new window): alkanes to the rescue of very dry skin

EMOGREEN™ are unique high purity alkanes. Alkanes are organic compounds with only carbon and hydrogen atoms, found in the living world (for instance in olive oil, sunflower oil, palm oil). Squalane is a famous alkane, known for its moisturizing properties.

EMOGREEN™ are from vegetable Origin (non GMO) and readily biodegradable. They are inert and non-polar oils, and can be very interesting for beauty products: they are easy to formulate with and to stabilize, even in very extreme conditions. They provide a fresh and gliding sensation for a soft finish, perfect alternatives to silicone oils.

On very dry skin, EMOGREEN™ L19 :

• has a significant restructuring effect (+8%) in synergy with bisabolol (in vivo tested)
• Significantly improves the dry skin’s moisturization aspect (+10%), softness (+15%) and smoothness (+11%) after 28 days.
• Decreased the skin discomfort sensation of panelists after 28 days of treatment.

Interesting fact:

EMOGREEN™ L19 also balances the skin microbiota population involved in the hydrolipidic film production, for hydration improvement (in vivo tested).

Other benefit for sensitive skins:

EMOGREEN™ L19 allows to decrease the minimum quantity of preservatives needed to reach preservation criteria A (according to European Pharmacopoeia).

INCI: C15-19 Alkane (Plant-based & Renewable)

DUB ESTOLINE®* your new go-to emollient for sensitive skins

DUB ESTOLINE® is Stearinerie Dubois’ newest solution inspired by nature, derived from castor oil.

It is an estolide: a highly structured liquid polymer ester derived from fatty acids. It forms a mesh matrix, promoting extreme comfort for sensitive skin and ultimate protection for urban living.

With its surprising honey-like yet non-sticky texture, it provides a smoothing effect with a satiny finish, and cushion without an oily sensation.

In skin care formulations, DUB ESTOLINE® coats the skin for a protective, anti-pollution film-forming, or “second skin,” effect. It promotes hydration and provides a rich texture with a sensation of mild, gentle comfort.

Use 1 to 10% and feel your formulation transform.

INCI: Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate

Tip: Also brings good benefits for Hair Care and Makeup applications

FORMULA US20131A - Boosting water cream

Discover the association of our best moisturizing ingredients mentioned above in the Boosting Water Cream. It leaves the skin “Chok Chok”: super moisturized but not oily or sticky.

Test the lightweight of a gel with the moisturizing power of a cream!

Order a sample or a prototype today through the chat!

*Stearinerie Dubois products are distributed in the USA by Seppic.

For other locations, contact Stearinerie Dubois: https://www.stearinerie-dubois.com/en/contact/

References

1. van Smeden J, Bouwstra JA. Stratum Corneum Lipids: Their Role for the Skin Barrier Function in Healthy Subjects and Atopic Dermatitis Patients. Curr Probl Dermatol. 2016;49:8-26. doi: 10.1159/000441540. Epub 2016 Feb 4. Review. PubMed PMID: 26844894. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26844894
2. Elias PM. Skin barrier function. Curr Allergy Asthma Rep. 2008;8(4):299‐305. doi:10.1007/s11882-008-0048-0 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2843412/
3. Tineke Berkers, Dani Visscher, Gert S. Gooris and Joke A. Bouwstra. Degree of Skin Barrier Disruption Affects Lipid Organization in Regenerated Stratum Corneum. https://www.medicaljournals.se/acta/content/html/10.2340/00015555-2865
4. Joke A.BouwstraMariaPonec. “The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state” https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0005273606002410