SAFE beauty is the new CLEAN Beauty

July 8, 2020

For the last few decades, health concerns have arisen about ingredients used in beauty products. Consumers have become afraid of chemicals and started looking for “natural”/ “green” and then “clean” products, with the main goal of having safer, “non-toxic” products.

In 2020, the anxiety and uncertainty caused by the pandemic leads to a greater need for reliable and safe beauty products. Society has also been washing hands and sanitizing them, increasing compromised skin conditions: itchiness, irritation and sensitivity.

Let’s see how to formulate safe personal care products, and restore healthy and protected skin!

Safety first!

When developing a personal care product, before even thinking of introducing benefits, treatments, or enhancements to the skin. We must make sure the product’s base itself is safe and doesn’t negatively affect the skin.

Safe Beauty Product

We asked ourselves on what criteria can we consider an ingredient “safe”, and -hopefully you will agree: It must be:

  • An essential ingredient: a necessity in the product, multifunctional and efficient even at a low dose, ideally moisturizing the skin
  • Must have a soft sensory profile, to be gentle upon application
  • Be well-known, widely use, with enough feedback
  • Must have an excellent proven tolerance

According to these criteria we picked 3 ingredients from our whole range to create minimalist, soft and safe formulas! They have been tested ( in vitro) for safety even on the most sensitive skins (baby, impaired and vaginal), because who can do more can do less!

AQUAXYL™: Restructuring and moisturizing active ingredient.

It reinforces the skin barrier function, increases water circulation and optimizes water reserves by boosting the natural hyaluronic acid produced within the skin. AQUAXYL™ provides an intense short & long-term moisturization within the skin!

SEPINOV™ EMT 10: a very versatile polymer.

It thickens, texturizes, and even stabilizes up to 45% oil phase, with a good pick-up, a good gliding & non-sticky feel. It’s easy to use (pre-neutralized) with a good compatibility to multiple stressful ingredients.

MONTANOV™ 202: Polyvalent green emulsifier.

From a natural and sustainable origin, it creates a lamellar network, increasing the stability of the emulsion and refilling the skin with lipids.

Skin barrier reinforcement

After making sure we have a safe cosmetic base, we can then see how to make this base helpful for the skin, protecting and reinforcing the natural skin barrier.

If you want to learn everything about the skin barrier, its constitution in lipids, you can refer to our article on the subject here (opens new window).

Here are different ingredients we recommend:

MONTANOV™ 202: Biomimetic emulsifier.

The lamellar structure formed in the emulsion is actually the same one formed by our lipids in the stratum corneum. Reinforce your natural skin barrier when using MONTANOV™ 202 and see how hydration level is up!

EMOGREEN™ L19: non-polar oil restoring the skin barrier balance.

Our unique green alkanes in EMOGREEN™ L19 reinforce the skin MICROBIOME for a restored skin barrier, improve the very dry skin aspect and reduce the need for preservative, making your product ideal for sensitive skin!

PROTEOL™ OAT PF: Gentle cleanser, respectful to skin barrier

Anionic surfactant, obtained by acylation of oat type amino acids, doesn't compromise the efficacy (abundant foam, onctuous and stable overtime) but respects the skin barrier and doesn’t affect the water loss compared to SLES.


CERAMOSIDES™ HP: Powerful ceramides to reinforce the skin barrier

Patented complex of plant-based ceramides extracted from non-GMO wheat, it contains only the polar lipids of the grain (with exclusion of the proteins, it’s a gluten-free product!), especially Omega 3-6-9. These ceramides efficiently strengthen the skin barrier to counter Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), for immediate and long-term hydration.


Focus on specific skin disorders

Need strong molecules to address specific skin disorders? Read below…

For acne-prone skin: LIPACIDE™ C8G

An AMINOVECTOR™ of glycine amino acid vectorized by an octanoic acid chain. It rebalances the skin pH, the sebum production, and has antimicrobial properties to fight germs involved in acne.

For rosacea-prone skin: ROSABORA™

A soothing ingredient from the healing Ambora plant, highly purified in polyphenols. It restores normal microcirculation and visibly improves persistent redness.

Ambora Plant

For psoriasis and atopic dermatitis prone skin: MADECASSOSIDE

A purified extract of madecassoside molecule from the Centella asiatica, a plant rich in strong soothing and protective molecules. MADECASSOSIDE soothes the skin and regulates the keratinization, for visible improvement of psoriasis and atopic dermatitis prone skin.

Centella asiatica

For damaged skin repair: TECA™

A titrated extract of three molecules from the Centella asiatica, that accelerates the skin repair process on damaged skin (soothes, repairs and remodels the skin).

For dry and inflamed skin: HYDRACHRYSUM™

Sourced from the everlasting flower Helichrysum stoechas, and potentiated by our sustainable CELTOSOME™ plant cell biotechnology, Hydrachrysum™ helps the dry and inflamed skin to go back to homeostasis. It restores the skin barrier and hydration: +32% hydration vs placebo at 1% and +82% lacunae water tanks in the Stratum corneum.

Helichrysum plant

Would like to receive more information or samples? Please ask us in the chat!