“Free-from” Silicones: Emollient Replacements for Skin Care & Hair Care
November 15, 2018
The “Free-from” trend has the cosmetics market continuously searching for more innovative, environmentally friendly ingredients while providing even better results. Consumers are looking to stay away from certain ingredients, but for formulators, they can be difficult to replace.
For silicones, this is no longer the case! From 2014 to 2017, the number of product launches with “Silicone-Free” claims has increased by 83%.
SEPPIC and Stearinerie Dubois can help you formulate silicone-free while keeping an elegant touch and appearance for both skin and hair care with our EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™ alkanes, and light, gliding esters from Dubois.
SEPPIC supplies two ranges range of biodegradable, non-polar, fluid alkanes, made with a patented production process for highest purity: EMOSMART™ and EMOGREEN™. These emollients are soluble with any type of oil, and with six different options, you are sure to optimize the touch and feel of your formulation to the precise desired feel.
In the U.S., SEPPIC distributes for the expert in esterification: Stearinerie Dubois . This wide range of esters provides all the choices you could need to improve the aspect of your skin care products. Within the silicone alternative range, we will explore the lightest emollient ester, DUB VCI 10, and ECOCERT esters DUB 810 C and DUB ZENOAT®.
The range of Emosmart and Emogreen emollients provides easy spreadability and precise playtime from light and vanishing to luxurious and long-lasting.
Emollients are especially important when formulating products with sticky/tacky components, like Glycerin. SEPPIC has tested the gliding effect that this range can provide to such formulations. In a formula with 10% Glycerin and 5% emollient, the reference with EMOSMART™ L19 is 3.5 times less sticky than the reference with Isohexadecane. In the same study, EMOGREEN™ L15 had the same profile as Cyclopentasiloxane.
Another desirable trait for emollients is the matte effect on the skin after application. Especially in facial care, it’s common to look for a product that has glide without shine. For an immediate matte effect on the skin, EMOGREEN™ L15 and EMOSMART™ L19 are the best choice, while EMOGREEN™ L19 has the closest profile to a volatile silicone oil.
If you are looking to GO GREEN, the ECOCERT emollient ester DUB 810 C has been compared vs. Isohexadecane at 15% in an emulsion. DUB 810 C provides a natural alternative, while keeping the emolliency and spreading profiles of silicones.
The lightest emollient in the range is the volatile ester DUB VCI 10. Its very short branched chain provides exceptional spreading and reduces oily sensations, leaving a more dry feel.
Unique sensory properties make DUB ZENOAT® the expert ester for the formulation of skincare and makeup products, lending them an ultra-comfortable silken feel. Its properties as a dispersant of anti-UV sunscreens make it ideal for the formulation of suncare products. This ester produces compact foundations with sensations similar to those of formulas using cyclomethicones, in terms of both dosing and application, but with more natural-looking coverage.
Beyond their functional properties, combinations of esters make it possible to fine-tune the surface feel of the end product. Ester blends are especially useful in the formulation of suncare, long-wear makeup, and multi-purpose skincare products.
Globally, the number of shampoo launches without silicones is increasing: 56% of shampoo launches do not contain silicones, and 13% claim silicone-free (Mintel, 2018). This shift is making way for innovative, environmentally friendly ingredients that won’t build up on the hair, and won’t weigh hair down.
The goal is to replace silicones with emollients that will bring the same benefits, but without any of the drawbacks. To achieve this, the ideal choices are EMOGREEN™ L15, for a light emollience, and EMOSMART™ V21, for a heavier, more oil-like coating on the hair.
For other locations, contact Stearinerie Dubois: https://www.stearinerie-dubois.com/en/contact/